047: JESSE FAEN - Former WSL Media Director
Jesse in Nicaragua 2019 Pic - Rick Briggs @donde_x
SHOW NOTES
Do you take your surfing seriously—but find yourself frustrated, stuck, or simply not having fun anymore?
In this powerful episode, Jesse Faen—former editor of Waves Magazine, surf industry leader, and lifelong waterman—shares what decades around the world’s best surfers taught him about mindset, joy, and performance. Recorded at the end of a transformative surf retreat in Nicaragua, this conversation will challenge how you think about surfing and yourself.
Discover why being playful in the water may be the most effective way to improve.
Learn how Kelee meditation creates mental space for better surfing and deeper self-awareness.
Hear behind-the-scenes stories from the pro tour and what truly separates good surfers from the greats.
Hit play now to uncover the mindset shift that will change how you surf—and how you live.
Jesse Faen is a talented surfer from North Narrabeen, Sydney turned surf media guru, former editor of Waves mag, Surfing mag, former WSL Media Director, has worked for brands like Insight, Magicseaweed, Malibu Popoyo. In this episode he shares; his playful take on surfing and lessons form his experiences with elite surfers.
Jesse’ Instagram - @jessefaen
https://www.instagram.com/jessefaen/?hl=en
Key Points
The importance of a playful mindset in surfing, emphasizing openness to new experiences and the joy of learning, was discussed.
A workshop on surfing posture, technique, and Kili meditation held in Solana Beach, San Diego, was highlighted for its positive reception and future plans.
The integration of meditation, specifically the Kili technique, into daily practice was noted for its simplicity and effectiveness in enhancing both personal and surfing performance.
The profound impact of the week-long surf trip, including lessons on meditation and personal development, was emphasized for its unexpected but significant benefits.
The value of having role models and consistent exposure to elite surfing techniques was discussed in the context of personal improvement and technique acquisition.
The concept of playfulness in surfing was expanded upon, highlighting the importance of trying new things, maintaining a humble mindset, and enjoying the learning process.
The influence of elite surfers, such as Tom Curran and Andy, on mindset and performance was discussed, emphasizing the importance of mental resilience and continuous improvement.
The role of consultants in the surfing industry, particularly in connecting people and projects, was described, focusing on the value of relationships and shared experiences.
Outline
Jesse's Perspective on Surfing and Playfulness
Jesse views being playful in surfing as a mindset of openness to new experiences and enjoying the learning process.
Emphasizing the importance of humility, Jesse believes not taking surfing too seriously is crucial.
A pivotal moment for Jesse was trying a twin-fin fish board for the first time, which reignited their passion by making them feel like a beginner again.
This experience led Jesse to embrace variety in their quiver and approach to surfing, constantly seeking new challenges and ways to have fun in the water.
Maintaining a playful attitude helps prevent becoming jaded or disappointed with surfing conditions or personal performance.
Jesse stresses the value of trying different boards and techniques to keep the sport fresh and enjoyable, focusing on the feeling and emotion of surfing rather than technical perfection.
Insights from Professional Surfing Experience
Drawing from extensive professional surfing experience, Jesse shares observations about elite athletes' mindsets.
Tom Curren is highlighted as an example of a surfer who never complained about conditions or judges, instead focusing solely on self-expression and acceptance.
Andy Irons' remarkable transformation is discussed, witnessing their journey from a talented but unfocused young surfer to a disciplined, humble champion.
This transformation involved intense physical and mental training, resulting in a more focused and self-confident athlete.
The importance of mental control and self-awareness in elevating physical performance is emphasized.
Notably, the most interesting athletes were those who could separate emotion from performance analysis.
Nicaragua Surf Trip Experience
Reflecting on a recent surf trip to Nicaragua, Jesse praises the venue for its variety of waves, user-friendly environment, and opportunities for barrel riding.
Great surfing conditions, meditation practices, and breathing exercises taught by Matt Greggs and Taylor Knox are appreciated.
Jesse notes visible improvement in other participants' surfing throughout the week, attributed to the calming effects of the meditation practices.
Such trips are valuable for passionate surfers, providing an opportunity to focus solely on surfing, health, and mindfulness.
The experience reinforced Jesse's belief in the importance of enjoying every aspect of surfing, from walking to the beach to paddling out, regardless of conditions.
Meditation and Mindfulness in Surfing
The trip introduced Jesse to the Kili meditation technique, which they found surprisingly simple to incorporate into daily practice.
Jesse appreciated the technique for its non-time-consuming nature and specific approach, contrasting it with more demanding meditation practices previously encountered.
Meditation practices helped participants clear their minds, leading to improved surfing performance.
Parallels are drawn between the meditative state and moments of flow experienced while surfing, such as being in a tube or performing a turn.
Cultivating this mindset can enhance both surfing performance and overall life satisfaction.
Career in the Surfing Industry
Jesse describes their career in the surfing industry as a series of embraced opportunities, leading to various roles including magazine editor, media director for professional surfing organizations, and marketing consultant.
They value the ability to connect people within the industry and share loved experiences with others.
Jesse's current role as a consultant involves leveraging an extensive network to help bring projects to fruition and introduce people to new surfing experiences.
Fulfillment is found in showcasing and sharing aspects of surfing that Jesse is passionate about, viewing the career as an ongoing opportunity to connect others with the joy of surfing.
Transcription
Jesse Faen
For me, being playful is a mindset of being open to new things. It's being encouraged by that learning process. It's allowing yourself to be humbled and to not be great at something, to enjoy the process of learning. I'm so grateful that concept came my way because as soon as it hit me, it's never left. For instance, someone like Tom Curran, I can't picture that person ever complaining about the conditions or the judges. He was just in acceptance and focused on himself at all times and doing the best he could in any wave and any part of a wave to express himself the way he wanted to. And it being acceptance of that. Back.
Michael Frampton
To the Surf Mastery Podcast. Quick housekeeping. Two nights ago on Sunday night here down in San Diego, Solana Beach, Taylor Knox and I held a workshop on surfing posture and technique and Kili meditation. It was very well received. Big thanks to all those who attended and those who helped to make it happen. There will be more of those types of things coming up, so stay tuned to the show and keep an eye on the Instagram for details on those. Excited to release today's episode with a friend of mine, Jesse Fane. He grew up in North Narrabeen on the northern beaches of Sydney in Australia and was just surrounded by amazing surfers and is an amazing surfer himself. Absolutely rips all types of boards, not just short boards, twin fins, bigger boards, bigger waves, small waves, kite boards, foil. Incredible surfer. But he grew up in North Narrabeen competing and he shares some of his experience about that in the show. And then when he was about 20 years, he sort of went into the surf industry and was editor of Waves Magazine, Surfing Magazine, then became the media director for the ASP for eight years. Obviously now the WSL. Was working as a CEO and president of InSight, a surf brand in the US, a brand manager for Magic Seaweed, is now doing marketing consulting in the surf industry. He's done commentary for surfing events, even came third at the Volcom Invitational in Chile about seven years ago. Phenomenal surfer, as I said, extremely well spoken. And today he shares just some of his thoughts on his experience as a surfer in general, but some other stuff, things he learnt being surrounded by such great surfers, both in his upbringing and his experience in the WSL. Jesse has a great take on surfing, makes it super fun and playful. Jesse and I both attended the surf trip with Matt Greggs and Taylor Knox in Nicaragua and this episode was done at the end of that. So that's how we sort of enter into this conversation. The intro and outro music is a song called Runaway by Ziggy Alberts. Please enjoy my conversation with Jesse. What did you learn about surfing this week?
Jesse Faen
That it's taken me to great places when I get to look around and be here in Nicaragua with a group of people. For starters, I guess that sense of, it's kind of just how much fun it's brought me. But like I was saying to you earlier, I really was reminded this week of just enjoying every part of the process and not being too consumed with the technical change here or there, but just really trying to enjoy the whole act of walking to the beach, paddling out, enjoying whatever the conditions are like and appreciating just those moments. And I think being here with Matt and Taylor obviously with their surfing experience, but with the meditation practices, it really shifted some of the focus from just what was going on in the water to what was going on in our own heads, which is, I think that's more importantly what I think I was focused on this week to be more internal as opposed to just focusing on the type of maneuvers on a wave I might have been doing or wanted to be doing. Yeah, yeah, 100%.
Michael Frampton
This was much more than a surf coaching trip.
Jesse Faen
I didn't think of it as a surf coaching trip. I thought of it as an amazing opportunity to be in a wave-rich area with like-minded people, but as an opportunity to really slow down on my thinking on wherever that might be and just really try to become better at being me and then knowing too well that the better I am at myself and the happier I feel within my own skin, the better I'll surf as a result.
Michael Frampton
What surprised you most about this trip?
Jesse Faen
How simple the meditation technique, the Kili meditation technique, is to incorporate into my daily practice because I didn't know anything about it. I'd heard the name, so I came here, I didn't do any research, I didn't try to understand anything prior to just allowing it to unfold in front of me naturally. I've got a lot of experience meditating and exploring different approaches to meditation, but I think realizing how easily I could incorporate something which was very specific and not time-consuming was awesome. I think that's going to be something I take away from here and use for...
Michael Frampton
In what way would you like? Sure. Can you expand on that? I don't know. For me, I came into this trip with some expectations. I'm realizing now that I was going to learn a lot about surfing technique and learn from Taylor and Matt about surfing and how to read waves and how to hold my body and all that sort of stuff. My expectations on that were met tenfold because of Matt's knowledge and experience as a coach. But just amazing, mind-blowing. I'd learned more about my own surfing and surfing technique as a surf coach more than I even expected. But on top of that, I learned more about myself and I wasn't expecting that. I thought, you know, we'll learn a bit of meditation and a bit of, you know, personal performance development. I thought, yeah, that's part of it. But it turns out that was by far the most I got out of this trip was that side of things. I agree with you. I'd actually read the Kili book and I'd been doing the Kili practice just from reading the book. And it helped, but only in terms of any other meditation practice. But after the first day when Matt sort of went through the basics, I was like. It was only when Matt was speaking in with you and you got to ask him questions around what he was talking about, that's when I really started to understand the practice. And that's when the profoundness of the practice hit me and the profoundness of Matt's and Taylor's. And then surfing was the metaphor kind of for taking some of those lessons and do something.
Jesse Faen
Yeah, I mean, that was all really well said. I think maybe the difference between your background and my background is I spent 30 years of my life heavily involved in the surfing, like the elite surfing scene, whether it was traveling on the tour with the best surfers at all these events or working in the industry around those people constantly. So I've had the benefit of spending lots of ocean time with lots of great surfers. And from the day I began surfing at Narrabin, I was surrounded by world champions and some of the best surfers ever. Every day I would see them. So I feel like not everyone gets that opportunity. I've been really lucky to have that opportunity since the day I started surfing. I've just had good examples of technique in the water. But I think to your point, that metaphor of surfing to life and ultimately the practice that we were able to spend some time on this week with two great teachers, Taylor and Matt, is in learning how to quiet down all the other stuff going on in our mind, which distracts us from being able to do anything well. Surfing, obviously, a big thing in that. We all like to think we leave our problems on the land when we paddle out and we all feel better usually when we come in. But in between paddling out and coming in, there's a lot of time that we're just sitting out there in our heads. And depending on the location and what the conditions are like, most of the surf, we're sitting out there by ourselves thinking, overthinking. And then we expect that the second an opportunity comes our way, and the better surfers will find those opportunities in the lineup more than the rest. We expect that at that second that a wave pops our way, we're going to just completely slip into the right technique and mindset. But I don't think it works that way. You kind of have to create that mindset ahead of time. And then when that opportunity is there for us, it's a lot easier when you're clear-headed and to just let instinct play out as opposed to be thinking what to do. So I think meditation or any pursuit that quietens down your mind and allows you to get more focused on what you're trying to do, super beneficial. And like I said, the way they were teaching it was super encouraging because it's coming from great surfers. So everyone here who has a desire to surf better and enjoy their time in the ocean more, is listening with open ears because there's a lot of respect for those two, for what they are bringing to the table. So I think them offering knowledge in an area that wasn't necessarily what you or other people coming here were expecting to be the focus, it was like perfect in how they were able to have your attention and then give you a gift bigger than maybe what you were thinking on. And for me, like I said, I didn't come here with the knowledge or expectation of what that practice was, but I have experience in meditation and I already knew the benefits of that. But it's a practice and I haven't been consistent in my practice because for whatever reason, mainly I think the practices that I was aware of and had spent time with over the years were really time consuming. Like sitting for an hour at a time and with an expectation to go much deeper and achieve much more. And because of that high demand of time and expectation, it's just really easy to make excuses not to do it at all. But the Kili practice and the simplicity and the visual way they explained it for me to incorporate that five minutes of time was so easy and so encouraging to want to do it because it's just a great way to like reset ourselves morning and night, whenever. And undeniably watching like all the crew here from the beginning of the week to the end of the week, it was so clear to me the change in people surfing as a result of them finding a calmer place in themselves and letting go of whatever hangups or expectations they were focused on day one. Like the last surf we had last night, everybody was charging and doing things that I wouldn't have expected them just a few days prior, just from what I had seen. And that was awesome.
Michael Frampton
Yeah, it's profound, right? Like I was blown away by that too. And like you said, just to reiterate, that is the lessons that we learned from this week, yes, we took them into our surfing, but they're applicable to every other part of life.
Jesse Faen
Yeah, and I think the reason all of us fall in love with surfing is it makes us happier and makes us then be better people in the rest of our life. Everyone operates from a better place when they're happy, but it's hard to find happiness sometimes when you're dealing with work and stress and responsibilities and family and blah. So surfing is like a selfish escape from most of our normal day life, but it doesn't always get us away from other humans and away from other problems, or doesn't always give us enough break from our thinking. Like those moments when you're in the tube or doing a turn in a section, yeah, you're just in that moment and that's awesome and all the other stuff disappears. So that's why we love it. But having a practice and understanding a technique that can help you do that anywhere, anytime that you're awake, even better. And then if you can do that practice, have that mindset when you're in the ocean, your surfing becomes better as a result too. Because not only does it allow you to stop overthinking, but it allows you to think clearer on what you want to focus on in the water. So yeah, I think for my own surfing, I don't know if it necessarily this work, this week sorry, had me like improve upon any part of my technique, but it allowed me to enjoy the whole time. And every time I paddled out, like without any problem and that's a gift in itself. Like I want to enjoy all my surfing time. And this week to be able to do it with less concern for other things, that's a goal for me every day.
Michael Frampton
Yeah, well you have great technique anyway.
Jesse Faen
Thank you. Like I said, I know I've been very fortunate to have great examples around me for all of my surfing life. Because like when I listen to people here this week or whenever asking questions about surfing and being so stressed about little things, I realize like I don't even think about those things usually. Because I've just had the good fortune to watch people intimately my whole life in the water that gave me great examples of what I wish I could do. So I would practice what I saw them doing. And back when I was surfing as a kid, there were no surfing coaches, there were no teachers in that. But I had a beach full of amazing surfers. And then as I got older, I got to travel with the surfing tour. And my job was to watch the best surfers every day. So if I didn't improve from that, I mean, clearly there would have been something wrong within me and my eyes and my ability to transfer information. Because I had so much time presented to me of great surfing examples that fortunately I got enough waves in the process to put some of that example into my own motion.
Michael Frampton
I want to come back to that. But first, what about the venue?
Jesse Faen
Well, I'm biased because obviously I love being here. And thanks to you, I met Jade and got to come here a few months ago. But the venue is beautiful. I mean, I'd never been to Nicaragua until this year. And I think I grew up like a lot of people looking at surfing magazines and seeing these faraway places and romanticizing the concept of getting to go to any and all of them my whole early surfing years. And I traveled a lot throughout the last 20 to 30 years of my life. But this was the first year I've come here and I just saw so much variety and great waves. And it's just so user-friendly. I mean, I think half of the week here I was getting barreled every surf, no matter where we paddled out. So I've kind of always said if I'm getting barreled, I'm in the right place. It doesn't matter if it's better somewhere else or bigger somewhere else. It sure makes me smile by default. But yeah, I mean, it's such a relaxing environment and the people are so friendly. Good waves are just a bonus if you're in a place like that.
Michael Frampton
Yeah. How's the food?
Jesse Faen
I've put on weight. I've definitely overeaten every meal. So yeah, it has my full I've slept well here.
Michael Frampton
Support. Yeah. Comfy beds too, right? That's awesome. That's a big one for me. Yeah.
Jesse Faen
I mean, it's just been such a great packaged week. Like you said, the concept of getting to be here with great surfers and other just passionate surfers is such a privilege to be able to have a week of that. But then to add the meditation, add the breathing exercises, all these techniques that I've learned from you and from Matt and from Taylor that I just maybe had seen from afar but never gotten to one-on-one ask someone about or actually start practicing. And then to take that experience and then paddle out and have it in my mind and feel it in my body and then overeat great food every chance I could. And then talk about surfing and technique at the end of the night and then go to sleep. I mean, that's not my typical week. And it's been such a privilege. And it's the type of thing like we were kind of talking about before that is so important for anyone who loves surfing to have that opportunity. Like whether you come to it with the idea that your surfing is going to get better or you're just going to have a great time. Either way, we owe it to our surfing life to have these experiences because places exist like this, waves exist like this. And if you get to carve out time where all you're really focused on is your health and your mind and your ability to go enjoy surfing, it doesn't get much better.
Michael Frampton
Yeah. And another thing like living in Southern California, you get a little bit disheartened in the surf culture sometimes. Because of the passive aggressive nature of living in such a place. But I was pleasantly surprised by Matt and Taylor just attracted a certain group of surfers that just I have got a new perspective on surfers. And it was such a good group.
Jesse Faen
That's true. I mean, look, there's amazing surfers at any beach all over the world. But there's a whole bunch of people that I'm embarrassed to be in the same stripe as a surfer, so to speak. And that's just a reflection of humanity. Like there's just a lot of people that I don't relate to in life as well as at the beach. But yeah, Matt and Taylor, I mean, they're both special humans. Obviously great surfers, but just special people. And that always attracts like-minded kind of energy. And yeah, I didn't have a clue besides you who was going to be here. But I didn't for a second doubt that it was going to be full of people I'd be interested to meet. Because anyone who's prioritizing an experience like this to come here and say goodbye to your family, say goodbye to your work. And say hello to some waves and the chance to really explore parts of ourself and our practice. Yeah, those are the kind of people I'm always wanting to learn from and spend time with. But I agree, like we live in a place where getting to the beach is as frustrating as the time in the beach sometimes. Like just dealing with the traffic in LA and the traffic in the water. And that brings out a really weird part of the human psyche. I don't know why it's that way. It shouldn't, but it does. Yeah, you can either fight it or you can laugh at it. Find a place away from the crowd or like I said, for me, a different pursuit in the ocean at times. Just to mix it up and not just get... I don't ever want to be a person, and I see these people everywhere, that is just constantly disappointed with the conditions or the crowd or something. Every day the conditions are perfect to go have fun and do something that's going to make you feel better about yourself and get to share that energy. I just don't want to be in the category of people that is just highlighting the obvious problems every day. Because I don't see the benefit of that for anyone.
Michael Frampton
That reminds me of something that you said, I think it was on the first day, about being playful. Can you expand on that? How do you be playful? It's such a good word to take into surfing. And how does it affect the way you surf?
Jesse Faen
When I think of the word playful, immediately I'm imagining someone smiling. Immediately I'm imagining enthusiasm for whatever they're trying to do. And that appreciation as if it's maybe your first or only opportunity to go do something. So do it with that kind of passion and knowledge that you're having a good time. If you're not, you don't have to do it. Go do something else. But if you're going to go surf, I want to be as playful as I can be. I want to enjoy every part of it. The paddling out, the every wave. Falling off, not falling off. Trying something new. Doing something that I've done before, but I know it's the right time on a wave to do it again. The friendships that you meet in the water. The whole part of it. The best way for me to stay playful is to keep trying new things. To be humbled. Because if I just go out there and ride a board that I know I can surf well every day, that gets so stale so quick. And I'm not in a humble state of mind. I'm in my ego thinking I can do this well. That's why I love trying to learn how to foil board. Trying to kite surf. Take a stand up paddle board out. Ride a single fin to a long board to a thruster to a quad or whatever. Because every time I take something different out that I haven't been using over and over again, there's a sense of I'm probably going to screw this up. And that makes me laugh. Because if I'm taking surfing serious, I'm missing the point. And I did that for a long time. I remember when I used to travel on tour, I would be taking out my standard high performance thruster. I remember vividly a couple of locations like Jay Bay and even on the Gold Coast. Being out there with so many super talented surfers. And no matter how I looked at it, I was always worse than the people around me. And I was like, well what's the fun in struggling to try to be like them and feeling conscious of not being as good as someone and not having as much fun as I perceive they must be having. By the way they could do a turn that I might not be able to do. So I was always being critical of myself. And then a huge turning point for me was going to South Africa one time. Arriving with some brand new high performance thrusters. And Derek Hynde, I was staying at his house at Jeffreys. And he encouraged me to take out a skip fry twin fin fish. One of the two that he had made for Curran for the film he made, Searching for Tom Curran. I took it out, I'd never picked up a board like that. I didn't even know what it was when I picked it up. The rails were so different, these beautiful wooden fins, but it was just so foreign to me. I picked it up and walked down the beach and just was like, I have no idea what I'm going to do. There was some sense of excitement in that I hadn't felt in a while. And as soon as I paddled out, it just felt different. And as soon as I stood up, I couldn't surf it. I fell off. Obviously you use the experience you have to go into your new experience. And as soon as I tried surfing a board like that, I was a beginner again. And pretty much from that first surf onwards for the next 10 to 15 years, I only rode those kind of boards or other boards that kept expanding my sense of variety and quiver for that very reason. Getting that feeling of, I'm out here to learn. I don't know this. And when you're trying to learn something, you've got to have a sense of humor because you're going to look stupid a lot of the time, falling off, making mistakes. And I just started feeling stoked again. It just really, for me, riding different boards, especially ones that I found really challenging, it got me stoked. It made me want to surf instead of making me want to be out there feeling disappointed that I wasn't doing something as good as so-and-so. Or as well as I thought I should be able to, being super critical and always kind of taking it serious. It just made me want to play in the ocean. And I haven't lost that feeling at all since then. But I've kept at it. Every time there's a new thing that I see someone doing that has something of appeal or interest to me, I immediately try it. Because it just keeps me feeling like a kid. It keeps me going, there's something new to try. And this is a challenge. And like I said earlier, the people that I see that get jaded and disappointed, I'm always looking at them going, why don't you try this? Why don't you try this other thing? Or because I know you're going to have a good time. Isn't that more fun than sitting here bitching about what you're not having a good time with? So for me, being playful is a mindset of being open to new things. It's being encouraged by that learning process. It's allowing yourself to be humbled and to not be great at something. To enjoy the process of learning. And I'm so grateful that concept came my way. Because as soon as it hit me, it's never left. I look forward every day to waking up and getting to do something like ride a different board. Every day virtually I try to. Or if I'm on the same board, I try to change boards with someone in the lineup. Like, can I try that for a wave? Just to get a different feeling and be reminded that every fin, every rail, every thickness of a board or type of shape is going to give you a different feeling. Why not look for the ones that you like and then add to those instead of just forcing something that's not working to be something different than it is.
Michael Frampton
Yeah, the feeling.
Jesse Faen
It's all about the feeling. I mean, 100%. There's no such thing as the right board or the right conditions. It's all about a feeling and that comes from within. Being stoked and wanting to keep having fun. Our boards give us feedback. Everything gives us some sort of feedback, but it's how we feel inside. If something's triggering a good feeling, I don't know about other people, but I want more of that.
Michael Frampton
Yeah, it's a big thing I learned this week actually is getting in touch with that feeling. Not just in surfing, that too, but on a deeper level.
Jesse Faen
100%. And that's not in your brain. It's probably everywhere but your brain. Brain will dissect that feeling into something that suits it at a time, but it's not a logical thought. It's an emotion. And I think that's why all of us who surf are so connected to being in the ocean because it's that motion of the ocean. We're moving with something and we're made up of that water and ourselves. There's something in that that's just so powerful. Feeling connected to this world we're in, but finding that feeling of happiness.
Michael Frampton
Yeah, it's something that both Taylor and Matt are in touch with as well, the playfulness and the feeling. And it just so happened that you, Matt and Taylor, were by far the better surfers on this trip and you're by far the ones who were more playful and who were in touch with the feeling more.
Jesse Faen
Because I think, again, those two and myself have all been very fortunate to be supported to surf more than others maybe throughout our lives and have so much time in the ocean. To be aware that there's always an opportunity on any given day you paddle out to find a good section or a good wave and not be just looking for one thing to tick the box to make it be okay to feel like you can go have a good time. And for me, if you paddle out on any day with the mindset that you're going to have a good time, I would say to you, what's the goal? And that's your answer that day, to have a good time, perfect. Then whatever else happens, that's just gravy on top, like you're having a good time, stoked. And it's so simple and everyone knows that, I'm not saying anything here profound, but I think everyone, especially when I walked down to the beach or when I saw most of the guys show up here with high-performance thrusters under their arm when they walk out the first time in not big waves, not super hollow sections, I was kind of like, okay, I just don't think they're going to find what they're looking for right now. And gradually as the week went on, their choice of equipment started changing and they started having more fun. And I know there's certain boards that aren't going to let me surf how I want at certain times. It doesn't mean I can't enjoy them, but if I have a choice, I won't use them at those times because I don't want to surf to be frustrated. I can do that easily before I paddle out.
Michael Frampton
So your time on tour around all these incredible surfers, what else did you learn from them?
Jesse Faen
Obviously, the simple answer is so much. To dissect that into examples of things, maybe it will take me a second to...
Michael Frampton
Trying to get at what you were saying, you and Matt had a conversation and Matt was like, well, there's a book in that. Well.
Jesse Faen
If you remember when we did one of the sessions the other day, we were talking about elite athletes and the mind of an elite athlete. And while everyone was sharing different words and different examples of things that come to mind when we think of the mind of an elite athlete, I just had years and years of visual and mental memories coming back of so many elite athletes that I got to travel the world with and work with day in, day out, watching them win or lose. And people were coming to mind while we were talking that just really helped me during those years see in motion that elite athlete's mind and those who are better and worse at some things. And what I brought up that day was, for instance, someone like Tom Curran. I can't picture that person ever complaining about the conditions or the judges. He was just in acceptance and focused on himself at all times and doing the best he could in any wave and any part of a wave to express himself the way he wanted to. And being in acceptance of that. The other person I was talking about was Andy and how I got to witness Andy come on tour as a very celebrated young talent, raw talent, that who was very, I mean, in his ego, he was young, but he was partying and he was just like, I mean, he had all the bravado, but he didn't have yet a lot of the experience on that tour. And he got really humbled that first year. So I saw someone who had so much outside expectation and probably internal expectation or confidence, but just got shattered and he fell off tour. But better than anyone else I got to witness during the time I was on tour, he took that as a positive opportunity to improve himself. And he basically trained himself mentally, physically, and came back a totally different person. And I've never witnessed that. Obviously, lots of athletes do a lot of training and get themselves to that point before they come to our attention. Because they come to our attention usually when they're being really successful. I saw Andy, he was obviously successful enough to get on tour initially and it was amazing raw talent. But what he did in that time between qualifying and not making it and then coming back was so inspiring. And that stands out for me more than anything I saw. Like I traveled the world with the greatest, Kelly, and so many other amazing surfers. But Andy during that chapter of my life was the best example of what is possible if you learn from your so-called mistakes and things that aren't serving you the best. And focus on what you could do to improve those weaknesses or improve your mental ability to handle lots of different variables. And he ultimately just came back such a focused, humbler, self-confident person. And wasn't talking the talk. He wasn't like beating his chest like I'm going to beat everyone. He just came back quiet and went out there and did the job. And surfed just as well as he'd been surfing before but with a confidence in himself that was just undeniable and obviously scary to his competitors. And so like that, I don't know if I'm answering your question, but that's a huge thing I took from being on tour and getting to travel alongside people like Andy and those champions who take it beyond their surfing ability but take it into their whole mindset. And obviously in any sport that's the same. It's like if you have the ability to be in control of your mindset, the things you do with your body go to the next level.
Michael Frampton
Do you know what he did during that year off to make that transition?
Jesse Faen
I mean he definitely did a lot of physical training. I don't know what he did or who he... I know some of the people he worked with. I don't know the secrets of what they were saying to him that got him thinking differently or behaving differently specifically. But I think he just really went inward and found that desire in himself of what he really wanted to achieve which wasn't to be the loudest person or the person partying the hardest. He wanted to be a world champion. He wanted to reach the destiny that he had felt since he started surfing and those around him had told him he should get. And he found it in himself to focus on that. And I mean for those next couple of years especially, I mean he won three world titles. I think probably by the third I'm sure the focus was waning a little bit and clearly it did after that. But for a few years he was so focused and like nothing was affecting him that I was saying. He was such a pleasure to work with and talk to about anything. And the reason I say all this is like I got to talk to a lot of great athletes, surfers who were winning and losing. And some of the people like I was saying win or lose they were great to talk to because you could see they were really thinking about what they had done and feeling what they had done win or lose and they were in touch with themselves. Those who weren't, they weren't that interesting to talk to. They were just like they were in their emotion and Andy had kind of gone to a different place where it wasn't emotional. He was just aware of what he was doing and he was working on whatever he could always to improve what he was or wasn't doing. And that's what was inspiring for me to witness in him and a lot of other people that just could separate that emotion to what they could actually work with which was being less emotional.
Michael Frampton
Out of the brain into the mind.
Jesse Faen
Yeah.
Michael Frampton
Going within like you said which is what we learned about this week. Yeah.
Jesse Faen
And I think I mean Griggsie, I mean I love the way he talks about things and clearly his time working with people like Mick Fanning and Owen and so many other people that you can see the results have spoken for themselves. But he's being able to be around people that can help you like he did for us tap into parts of our own thinking which is a personal thing but to have people help you help guide you to kind of go down those paths or like let go of some of the thinking that isn't helping. That's, I mean, it's a powerful thing.
Michael Frampton
How would you describe what you do within the surfing industry?
Jesse Faen
Well like I said I've been super fortunate to be involved with something that I've loved from day one for a long time and I've done many different jobs along that journey and none of them I really ever asked for. Like I feel like for the longest time I just kept having opportunities come my way and I just said yes to whatever it might be and it led to something. And over the last few years I guess what seems to have been happening is of because I live in a place like Los Angeles which isn't necessarily the surfing epicenter of any industry or great waves or anything like that or it's not a destination for surfing. I found myself playing a kind of consultant's role of connecting various people in different parts of the world or different parts of the industry together just because I've been fortunate to have a lot of relationships with lots of people over the years. And for me I love that. Like I love getting to help people that are trying to do a project connect with others that can help make that happen and bring more like more good elements to the party I guess. Right now like being here in Nicaragua for me helping shine the light on a place like this I mean again it just feels like a privilege. I get to share good things with people who are going to appreciate it. I feel like that's kind of what I've done my whole career. Like I started at 20 editing surfing magazines and when I think back of what that really was it was like I had a platform to showcase something that I felt that I loved to other people. And I don't really think I've done anything different in the last 25 years. Like anything that I've been involved with hopefully was something I loved enough to want to share. And the better I shared that the more people got to experience something maybe they weren't aware of. And that's how I look at an opportunity like being here or an invitation to come and experience it. And I've just always been a person that if I experience something I love I want everyone I care about or know to realize hey this is available for you to go have some fun. Well put. Cool.
Michael Frampton
Thanks for your time bro.
Jesse Faen
Thank you mate. Cheers.
47 Jesse Faen - Former WSL Media Director
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