How The Wrong Leash Nearly Killed Me
The tail of my board was hitting me in the face (I still have a scar on my cheek), I was being rag-dolled out to sea by the undertow of the cold,dirty, flooded river. My leash had instantly wrapped around my arms just above the elbows, partially around my neck and head. It had pulled tight, I couldn’t swim.
Only seconds earlier, I had been paddling into what I thought would be a perfect barrel ride—my ignorant optimism quickly shattered by conditions I wasn't prepared for, with equipment ill-suited for the situation. Was this it? The end? At least I'd go doing what I love, I thought.
The strength of the current combined with the tightness of the leg rope had me trapped on the bottom - being dragged out to sea. I panicked and struggled to break free of the bind I was in - making things worse - using my oxygen FAST. It hurt. I don't know how long I was under, but it felt like minutes (probably only 25 seconds).
As the river slowly turned into the ocean, the current weakened enough for me to move my arms, and I swam frantically to the surface. When I finally broke through and opened my eyes, everything was red, like I was wearing tinted glasses. That first breath of air felt like the best thing in the world. Exhausted and shaken, I began the paddle of shame back to shore, where my friends stood laughing, having witnessed my violent wipeout. I had been the guinea pig for conditions that they somehow knew looked too good to be true.
It was the first time I had ever surfed a flooded river bar, but it was also the first time I had seen such square top - bottom barrels. That was my first mistake, I had only been surfing for a couple of years and did not have the skills to surf in such conditions. Combine that with the wrong equipment - I was lucky to walk away with a cut face and a bruised ego.
Surfing is a dangerous pursuit. One wrong decision can have dire consequences. Two bad decisions drastically increase the risk. I was out of my depth in both surfing ability and awareness, and this was a humbling lesson. Just as importantly, I learned the value of having the right equipment—especially the leash (aka leg rope). Choose wisely.
How to avoid my mistake:
In general, your leash should be about the same length as your board, and the thickness should match the conditions. A small wave leash works well in smaller waves as it reduces drag, but in big or powerful surf, it’s likely to overstretch, break, or—worse—spring your board back at you like a slingshot (that's how I got the scar above my eye, but that's another story).
Your leash should be no older than one season - maybe 2 - depending on how much you use it and its exposure to UV rays. Regularly check it for cracks, nicks, and weak points. Choose wisely, check regularly, and replace often.
