Surfing is difficult and dangerous, it's one of the hardest things to learn. You have to learn in the chaos and unpredictability of the ocean. Everytime you surf the conditions are different and no two waves are the same. Combine that with the inherent risk of shark attacks, stray surfboards, sharp rocks and crowded line ups, learning to surf seems near impossible. But surfing is amazing and it's the barrier to entry that makes it so exciting.
Surfing is a thrilling water sport that offers a unique connection with nature and an adrenaline rush like no other. However, getting started can seem intimidating, especially for those who have never ridden a wave before. How to surf. In this article, we will outline five steps to help you begin your surfing journey, address the common barriers that often discourage beginners from pursuing this exciting sport and give you some principles to remember as you learn to surf.
Step 1: Gear up and choose the right board
The first step in starting surfing is to gather the necessary equipment. The key component is selecting the right surfboard for your skill level. As a beginner, it's best to start with a larger, more stable board known as a longboard. This type of board offers better balance and buoyancy, making it easier to catch waves and maintain stability while learning. I recommend you get a 8-9ft soft top. You will likely need a wetsuit, talk to some local surfers or the local surf shop to get the right one for your local conditions. You will also need a leg rope (leash). Do NOT get a cheap one. Add in a block of wax and you are set.
Step 2: Find the right beach and conditions
Not all beaches are ideal for beginners, as different locations offer varying wave conditions. Look for beaches with mellow, rolling waves that are suitable for learning.The place where the local surf school operates is a good place to start. It's also important to consider the local weather conditions, such as wind direction and tides, which can significantly impact wave quality and your surfing experience. Talk with experienced surfers or local surf schools to find the best options.
Step 3: Take a group surf lesson
Learning to surf can be challenging, and having guidance can make a world of difference. Consider enrolling in a group surf lesson or finding a mentor who can provide valuable tips, techniques, and safety guidelines. An experienced instructor can teach you the basics, including paddling techniques, timing, and how to catch and ride waves. Their expertise will help you progress faster and build confidence in the water. This also gives the opportunity to research step 2 and to meet some people to learn with.
Step 4: Catching waves
Now you have the gear and the basics it's time to put the hours in. Your first goal should be to master catching white water waves. Catching waves is about positioning and timing - not paddling. I recommend that you don't paddle for waves until you are comfortable catching them using timing and board placement.
Stand in water between hip and chest width with your surfboard pointing towards the beach. Wait for the wave to almost hit the tail of your board and then jump on as you lunge forward. If you time this right then you will instantly join the wave.
Step 5: Standing up
There is no rush to stand up. Transitioning from prone (lying on your front) to the press up (on your hands) to standing on your feet is one of the most athletic movements in surfing. It is also the first manoeuvre you will learn - yes the pop-up or take-off is a surfing manoeuvre. Because surfing doesn't begin once you stand up, surfing starts once you have committed to the wave. So transitioning from prone to standing is something you do once you are already “surfing” the wave - therefore there is no rush to stand, no pressure, no need even. This may seem counterintuitive as you were probably encouraged to stand up straight away during your group lesson. But t group lessons at surf schools are not targeted to people who are wanting to be lifelong surfers. Most surf school surf lessons offer the “tourist experience”. If you want to set yourself up for long term surfing success then follow these steps.
Surf your first 10 waves prone - lying down with bodyweight mostly through your chest
Surf your next 10 in Up-dog. “Whats Up-dog? Not much dog, what's up with you?”
Up-dog is a yoga position where most of your bodyweight is through your hands, kind of like pushing pause between prone and standing position, get used to surfing, controlling and stabilising the board in this position.
The natural progression now is to bring your front foot up and place it in between your hands and stand. Don't stand too tall though, keep your knees a little bent, hands out for balance and look where you are going.
These are 2 fundamental skills that are always overlooked, slow down and work on them.
Common Barriers and Reasons Why People Give Up:
Despite the joy and thrill that surfing brings, there are common barriers that often discourage beginners from continuing their surfing journey. These barriers include:
Fear of the ocean: The vastness and unpredictability of the ocean can be overwhelming for some beginners. It is crucial to develop a healthy respect for the ocean while also understanding the safety measures and precautions necessary to enjoy the sport.
Physical fitness: Surfing demands a certain level of physical fitness and stamina. Lack of fitness or strength can make it challenging to paddle out and catch waves, leading to frustration and discouragement. Engaging in regular exercise and building core strength can greatly enhance your surfing abilities.
Time commitment: Surfing requires time and dedication to progress. Balancing work, family, and other commitments can limit the time available to practise regularly. It's important to carve out dedicated time for surfing to make consistent progress and build the necessary skills.
Initial difficulty: Learning to surf has a steep learning curve, and the initial stages can be frustrating. Wipeouts, missed waves, and struggling with balance can lead to self-doubt and frustration. It's important to remember that everyone goes through this phase, and with persistence and practice, progress will come.
Lack of community support: Surfing can be a solitary sport, and starting alone without a supportive community can make it harder to stay motivated. Seek out local surf communities, join surf clubs, or connect with other surfers to share experiences, gain knowledge, and find encouragement.
Principles to remember.
Never surf alone
Don't surf the conditions if you can't swim the conditions
Identify safe white-water surfing areas
Identify your local hazards
Surfing starts once you commit to the wave, not once you stand-up
Remember, surfing is hard, it takes much longer to learn that most other endeavours, because every wave is different (even white water waves)
Surf everyday
Conclusion:
Starting the exhilarating journey of surfing is a rewarding experience that offers countless moments of joy and connection with the ocean. By following these five steps, understanding the common barriers, remember the principles and you can overcome initial challenges and set yourself on a path to becoming a confident and capable surfer. Embrace the learning process, stay persistent, and remember that the best surfer is the one having the most fun. So grab your board, hit the waves, and enjoy the incredible world of surfing!
For more infö listen to episode: https://surfmastery.com/podcast/howtostartsurfing
For more advice book an online coaching session.