023: BUD FREITAS - Surf Coach & Shredder.
Show Notes for The Surf Mastery Podcast: Mastering Fundamentals and Wave Selection with Bud Freitas
Are you stuck on a plateau in your surfing? Find out why slowing down might be the fastest way to level up.
Many surfers struggle to break through to the next level because they skip the fundamentals. Whether you’re looking to smooth out your turns, learn wave reading, or unlock the secret to better shortboard performance, this episode with pro surfer turned coach Bud Freitas is packed with actionable insights to transform your surfing journey.
Learn why starting on a longboard—or even a hybrid—can be a game-changer for your surfing fundamentals.
Discover how to master wave reading and make better choices in the lineup.
Get tips on finding the perfect board for your goals, whether you’re new to longboarding or looking to sharpen your shortboard skills.
Listen now to gain expert advice from Bud Freitas and take your surfing to the next level with proven techniques and insights!
Notable Quotes:
“People just shoot for the stars and miss the basics. Learning to surf starts with understanding the board, the wave, and yourself.” – Bud Freitas
“If you’re struggling on a shortboard, grab a longboard or an eight-foot hybrid. It’ll teach you control and how to find speed through your rail.” – Bud Freitas
“Wave selection is personal. What I look for might not be what you’re looking for, but understanding the contrast between a mushy wave and a walled-up wave is key.” – Bud Freitas
“Why not test your will? Take a steep drop on a log, and you’ll be super satisfied when you pull it off.” – Bud Freitas
“Seeing the stoke in a beginner or even an older client when they nail their first big turn or wave—that’s what it’s all about.” – Bud Freitas
Bud Freitas grew up surfing in Santa Cruz county and has a vast amount of local knowledge in the Santa Cruz area to facilitate your santa cruz surf lessons from Surf School Santa Cruz. Bud spent every waking hour of his young life surfing and exploring the coast of Santa Cruz, and has 20+ years experience in the water surfing his butt off. His credentials on the WQS and other contests speak for itself, and if you want to watch Bud Freitas in action watch the video on the right side of this page, or check out the Photo Gallery and watch Bud ripping with your own eyes! Learn more about Bud Freitas the surfer and teacher
Show Notes:
https://surfschoolsantacruz.com
https://shop.firewiresurfboards.com/products/crossover-addvance
http://www.surfer.com/videos/brainwork-adam-replogle/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzoMcWyarS4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCBDXB9fbXU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1XNR8eyPMQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0o1aCaDhuKw
https://shop.firewiresurfboards.com/collections/slater-designs/products/omni
Key Points
Bud Freitas shares his experience of learning to surf by watching and studying the surfing style of local surfers like Adam Rapogol, focusing on their rail game and smooth turns.
Bud emphasizes the importance of starting with a longboard or hybrid board to learn the fundamentals of surfing and understanding how a surfboard works before transitioning to a shortboard.
Bud suggests that one of the biggest challenges for surfers is skipping the fundamental steps of learning on a longboard or hybrid board and jumping straight to a shortboard, leading to a lack of proper technique.
Bud recommends that surfers struggling with their shortboard surfing should go back to riding a longboard or hybrid board to regain their flow and fundamentals before transitioning back to the shortboard.
Bud discusses the importance of wave selection and reading waves, emphasizing that it's a personal preference and takes time and experience to develop.
Bud shares his transition from being a professional surfer to becoming a surf coach, driven by his passion for helping others improve their surfing skills.
Bud highlights the challenges faced by adult learners and the satisfaction he derives from seeing their progress and stoke, similar to coaching kids.
Bud emphasizes the need for surfers to learn how to truly surf, rather than just jumping around on a surfboard, and recommends starting with a longboard or hybrid board to develop proper technique.
Outline
Introduction of Bud Freitas
Bud Freitas is introduced as a surfer from Santa Cruz who spent time on the World Qualifying Series (WQS).
He is described as an accomplished shortboard surfer passionate about both surfing and coaching.
The host mentions that Bud has a website called Surf School Santa Cruz, which features additional information about him, including a three-minute video by Surfer Magazine showcasing his skills.
Early Surfing Experience
Bud started surfing at a young age but initially stepped away after a frightening experience of being held down by a wave for an extended period.
He returned to surfing around age 9-10, joining a group of friends who competed.
His competitive nature drove rapid improvement, motivated by the desire to surpass their best friend.
Bud began on a longboard for about a year before transitioning to a shortboard, which significantly boosted his progress.
Influence of Local Surfers
Bud grew up near Pleasure Point, one of Santa Cruz's best waves, which exposed him to many top surfers in the area.
He learned primarily by watching others, particularly admiring surfers like Chris Gallagher, Adam Repogle, and Kieran Horn.
Bud specifically studied Adam Repogle's rail-focused surfing style, which heavily influenced his own approach to surfing.
Surfing Techniques and Fundamentals
Bud emphasizes the importance of using the rail of the surfboard for speed and control, as opposed to hopping around on the board.
He believes many surfers today miss crucial fundamentals by skipping the longboard stage and going straight to shortboards.
Bud recommends starting with a longboard or larger board to learn how a surfboard works and develop a feel for using the rail.
He suggests reverting to a larger board when struggling on a shortboard to regain fundamentals and flow.
Bud advises that slowing down on a longer board teaches wave awareness, body positioning, and proper technique.
Teaching Wave Selection
Bud discusses the challenges of teaching wave selection, as it is highly personal and varies between surfers.
He looks for 'walled up' waves that offer speed and a good ride.
When teaching wave selection, he sits with students in the lineup, showing them how different waves break and what to look for.
Bud emphasizes that learning to read waves comes with experience and time spent in the water.
He mentions that as surfers progress, they become more selective about which waves they choose, sometimes waiting long periods for the right one.
Professional Career and Coaching
After a few years on the professional tour, Bud got burnt out and took a break from surfing.
Later, he got a 'second wind' and returned to surfing, eventually partnering with Fox Racing.
Bud started a coaching career with one student, which led to coaching more kids and eventually starting a surf school.
He now works with a variety of clients, including adults looking to improve their surfing skills.
Bud stresses the importance of starting with fundamentals, even for experienced surfers looking to improve.
He often recommends using longer boards or hybrids to help surfers slow down and focus on technique.
Bud believes many surfers today focus too much on aerial maneuvers at the expense of fundamental turning and wave riding skills.
He suggests that even shortboarders can benefit from occasionally riding longer boards to improve overall surfing.
For those looking to improve fundamentals, Bud recommends trying a traditional longboard or 'log' rather than a high-performance longboard.
He suggests the 'Advance' as a good hybrid board for those transitioning or looking to work on fundamentals.
Bud rides a variety of boards himself, including a 5'7" Sci-Fi, a 5'4" Omni, and a custom 5'11" round tail.
Influential Surf Movies
Bud mentions several influential surf movies, including 'Good Times' by Taylor Steele, 'Progression Session' by Tony Roberts, and 'The Kill' by Tony Roberts.
Transcription
You lay one down on rail and you come out of it and do it again, it doesn't get better than that. It really doesn't. Surfing will come a little bit easier and you'll actually find how a surfboard works.
Welcome to the Surf Mastery Podcast. We interview the world's best surfers and the people behind them to provide you with education and inspiration to surfers better.
You'll get on a surfboard and it'll feel like featherweight and you can just light it up.
Michael Frampton
Okay, welcome back to the show, faithful listeners. It has been a while, I know, but we've got today's episode and then I've got four more I'm currently editing. So there's plenty of content coming before the end of the year. A couple of housekeeping things before we get into this interview. Firstly, I am currently in Malibu in California at the moment. I am here until the end of October and I'm studying functional neurology and looking for case studies. The perfect case study is someone that has already seen everyone. You know, you've seen chiros, physios, physical therapists, massage, etc. You're still in pain, let me know. If there's anyone in Malibu or driving through Malibu that wants to go surfing somewhere, I'm very keen to find some good waves before the end of October as well. So get in touch on that note as well. If there's anyone out there interested in being a guest host of the podcast, please get in touch. If there is a friend of yours who you think would be a good interview and fits into what the show is about, send me an email. Let's chat about it. I'm more than to having guest hosts. I am organizing a Surfers Mastery trip. A few people have already expressed interest in this. It's going to be probably in Central America. I have found a couple of spots that would suit. If anyone's interested in coming, please get in touch. If anyone has any contacts down there as far as a good location, etc., or any advice, please get in touch as well. The surfers trip is going to be based around getting better at surfing. So we're going to have surf coaches, a couple of professional surfers, videographers, etc. So yeah, please get in touch if you're interested in participating or have any advice on that one. You can just send me an email as best either through the contact page at surfmastery.com or just mike at surfmastery.com. Today's interview is with Bud Freitas. Bud is a surfer from Santa Cruz. Bud spent some time on the WQS. Bud absolutely shreds on a shortboard. As you'll hear in this interview, Bud is a very passionate surfer. He loves surfing, but he's just as passionate about surf coaching. If you want to learn more about Bud, there are links in the show notes. And if you just go to his website, Surfer's School Santa Cruz, you'll see some more stuff on him, including a piece that Surfer's Magazine did on him. It's a nice little three-minute video that's got some footage of him absolutely ripping. Without further ado, here's my conversation with Bud.
Bud Freitas
Love it. It's so fun. Watching a kid go from, like you said, the word, you know, mastery, like when you go the next level and then they do their first turn or they do their first floater or just even catching the overhead wave, like just seeing the excitement in the kid's face to the next level is so insane. It's so fun. And the best is after they do something, they want to come up and just let you know, "My God, I did the biggest turn." And you're just like, "Yeah, you did. You did a great turn. It's a big old turn," you know, and it's like some little hack, but it's just like in their mind, they threw a big old Aki snap or something. That stuff's the best.
Michael Frampton
When did you see the steepest learning curve in your own surfing?
Bud Freitas
I'm going to say when I first started, I got, you know, I got the bug, I was super into it. And then I kind of stepped away after that because I got worked by a wave and held down for a super long time. So that kind of spooked me. And then I came back at it. And then from, like, I'd say nine and ten is where I really jumped into it. And then I had friends that joined me, a group of friends that surfed, and we started competing. And what was happening is I wasn't winning and I wasn't doing well in the contest. I was, like, just chugging along and just watching them get in first place or whatever, like one of my best friends. That's when it just turned it on for me. And it just drove me to, like, the next level. And I would not stop. I was in the water all day long, just trying to beat my best friend is what my goal was. And it got to the point where I surpassed him and I was on the skid, the brunt. As a kid, I was winning a bunch of contests. And I don't know if it ever really stopped. I mean, I'm a competitive person, but I think as a whole, as surfing, I think once I started getting the feel for surfing—like I started on longboard first, played with that for a couple, like a year or so, and then I graduated to shortboard—that's when I would say that's when I started really feeling the bug and went on to the next two.
Michael Frampton
So you were inspired by people that were better than you competitively, and you were driven from that. You had a competitive drive behind it as well?
Bud Freitas
Yeah, I think I'm competitive no matter what it is. I'm just that person. But it's funny because I grew up on Pleasure Point, which is one of the best waves in Santa Cruz. You know, there's two main breaks. There's one at Steamer Lane, one at Pleasure Point, and my house is two houses from the point. Like it's one of the closest houses can be. And I was just surrounded by good surfing too. It was always fun because, like, the whole neighborhood and there's all the top surfers were in that neighborhood and there are some went around there, like one of the famous ones, Chris Gallagher, Adam Rapogo, Kieran Horn, and that whole group in front of me. So that was another cool thing because they'd be parking on my street and I was just like the girl that had the biggest stoke just when they pull up and, like, walk down with them to go surf. But, like, watching them surf is kind of what drove me to become better because, like, it taught me, like, the rail game, I think, is what it came from. If you think of all those guys, they're all rail surfers. I can maybe do an air if I try, but I can't really get my ass out of the water. Like, I'm not that guy. So that was another thing too, is being surrounded by good surfing, like, all the time. There's always someone out there surfing good, pushing it. So it was fun.
Michael Frampton
So is that how you learned? Just by watching others?
Bud Freitas
By watching others, yeah. And I was never really coached and that's what kind of bummed me out because when I got to the next level, I was starting to go down south and travel, and by then it was like my teens, like younger teenage, and a lot of those guys had coaches or had some kind of group or someone had coaching with it. And it was never really offered up here until my, like, let's say 16, 17, is when Chris Gallagher started putting together, like, a coaching team up here and he was helping the younger groups. And that's when it really started to kick in and kind of moving forward to the next level. But I was—that was my problem. I didn't take it that serious. I thought it was kind of fun to, like, go to these workouts and stuff, but I was never really, like, super hard on because I figured I could just do it myself. I'm kind of that guy, like, I could watch and learn. So that's, like, one of the downfalls I think for me was not pushing it to the next level. With the training and stuff, I was more into just surfing and finding my way that way. I learn by visual more than I do anything else. Like, watching someone surf, I can pick up on it. I find it a little bit easier for me.
Michael Frampton
Most surfers will watch the best surfers at their local break and, you know, they'll watch them and they'll try and learn from them. But most people can't integrate what they see into their own surfing. Was there a way that you looked at those surfers or the way that you thought about the way they surfed that separated you from other people that were kind of thinking along the same lines? Why were you successful in just watching others and other people weren't? Do you know why?
Bud Freitas
I don't know, that's a great question. I mean, I think it's just wanting to fall suit with those guys. Adam Rapogol, for instance, is like my all-time favorite surfer, and he literally took me out for the first time as a kid. I have a picture with him, it's like funny, I was a tiny little dude. I think just him being around me and being an idol for the Santa Cruz kids, and I think I just wanted to be him, so I literally studied his surfing up and down. When he surfs, it was like all my attention was to Adam and how he used the rail and how he maneuvered the board. It's hard to find a guy that doesn't jump around on a surfboard. Like Taylor Knox, he doesn't jump around, he uses all rail. Adam Rapogol, all rail. That is surfing to me when you're finding speed through your rail and not having to hop around. And that's what's fun watching them surf or watching Adam surf growing up, because it's a point break and you can watch him just use a rail, you know, front hand just all the way through, and it was just like I think that just soaked in and that's what I wanted, so I was just dead set on being that kind of surfer. And that's what drove me to become what I am—or, I mean, the kind of surfing I chose to be. I like to use the rail a lot, that's definitely what I perceive.
Michael Frampton
Yeah, I fall into the same category. I think I'd rather do a full-on rail turn than anything else.
Bud Freitas
It's so good. I mean, doing a big air, I'm not going to do a huge air, but like you lay one down on rail and you come out of it and do it again, it doesn't get better than that. Because you're just putting all your oomph into it and you're just laying it on rail, and you're finding your board is like the best feeling.
Michael Frampton
So when you say you were studying the surfers, your favorite surfers and how they surf on rail, what exactly do you mean by that? Were you watching footage of them?
Bud Freitas
So I was like, now I think of all of us as friends, we'd have surfers movies at my house 24-7. But yet alone, I could literally walk 30 steps and then sit on the rail, which is right on the cliff, and it looks straight at the point break, and I could just watch them surf the whole time. And that would take time, so I just watched this whole session. Best thing ever, it was so cool because there'd be times where Kieran Horn, Chris Gallagher, Adam Rapogol—they'd all be out there shredding. It was just like more of a movie to us than anything. It was just like entertainment, we're just watching, it was so fun. All the kids up there were just in awe watching this.
Michael Frampton
So if you get a client coming to you saying, I really want to smooth out my surfing and use my rail more—I think most people fall in the opposite category. Like you said, they're kind of hopping around trying to pump for speed, they want to throw the tail. How do you ease them into that new way of thinking for surfing on rail?
Bud Freitas
So I think one of the biggest things missed in surfing now is people just jump straight to a shortboard, or they just bypass the biggest part of surfing, which I think you got to learn the fundamentals. And if you grab a longboard, if you learn from a longboard and kind of make your steps into surfing, I think you're going to find surfing will come a little bit easier and you'll actually find how a surfboard works. Because you're not going to get on a longboard and jump around. If you want to pick up speed on a longboard, you don't just jump and try and get speed. You're going to have to hold the rail and you're going to make that section. And I think that's a lot of things that's missing in today's age of surfing. People just see the stuff on TV and they're like, I want to go on movies and I want to surf like that guy. I think you got to take the time and really learn how to ride a surfboard. And you jump on a nine-foot board, that's a lot of board. And even say, 10-footer, you got to keep that thing from nose diving or just keep that thing on rail—set a rail on those things. It's pretty hard. And I think a lot of people miss that step in surfing. So that's one of the things I always encourage. Like, when I was having bad times on shortboards and I was struggling with my surfing when I was doing contests and stuff, I learned this from Adam Rapogol actually. He's like, dude, if you're struggling on a shortboard, go get this—it was a seven-foot board I had bought for my little sister. It was like a hybrid thing. And I'd go out there and I'd cruise and I'd find my rail, I'd find my surfing again, and I'd jump back on my shortboard and it would put all my fundamentals back into it. And I'd be able to use it. Once I use it, I'd be able to find my groove again. I think that's a hard thing. It's like, even on shortboards, you just get in a weird funk, and sometimes you need to step back, ride a little bit bigger board, get a little flow going, and then you jump on your shortboard and you can just light it up.
Michael Frampton
Do you get much resistance when you suggest longboarding to people?
Bud Freitas
No, but the younger kids, yes, because they're more embarrassed of it. I think as an adult, I think a lot of them are like, okay, yeah, I'll try. Because you're going to get some older guys that are like, I want to move down to a shortboard. I'm like, how about you figure out this longboard, and then we'll move to a hybrid, and then hybrid down. And I think a lot of them, they take it into it, but I think the kids are going to have a harder time because they're going to see their friends riding shortboards and they don't want to be the odd duck out. So I think that's the challenge. But I would recommend to any kid that is pursuing a surfing career or competitive surfing, I would highly recommend them starting to just longboard once in a while, or even like when you have those flaws, when you have those moments where you're just not feeling it, get on a longboard and you'll learn and you'll find it again.
Michael Frampton
What exactly are you forced to do on a longer board that you don't have to do on a shortboard?
Bud Freitas
You have to slow it down. Everything slows down and you have to pay attention to what you're doing. You know, like when you're paddling in a wave, you don't get to just jump up. You got to look at where the nose is going. So you get up, hold the nose, you pull a big bottom turn, you hold it, then you set your line, and that's all rail. Then you set a line, you're jamming. You want to do a cutback, you're not just going to wrap it, you're going to slow it down and you're going to use your body to turn that board because it's a big board. And if you're doing that on a longboard, you'll get on a shortboard and it'll feel like featherweight and you can just light it up.
Michael Frampton
So if someone wants to learn how to surf a shortboard faster, they need to jump on a longboard and slow things down first?
Bud Freitas
I just feel like it will just—mentally, it just puts you in the next—because when you get on that board, like I said, it's going to feel so light and you'll start jamming with it because you get to move the board around. So you're going to be able to speed. You want to do as before, like you get on longboard, you want to start jamming. It's not like that. You're going to have to kind of, like, find it. You're going to have to groove with it. And then you go to a shortboard, you can jam.
Michael Frampton
So I guess when you slow things down, it really teaches you more about, like, wave awareness and body awareness as well?
Bud Freitas
That's another point too. A lot of people come to me and ask me, I want to know how to read waves. I want to know what I'm looking for. That's like a tough one because my—like what I choose in a wave or what I'm looking for in waves can be completely different. Like what you look—or the way you see a wave. So that's always been a challenge for me because people are like, I want to know where to go. I'm like, you could always use point of contact, like on the beach, like, here's the lineup. You could use that. But I think another thing is people reading waves. Like I'm looking for a walled-up wave, I'm sure you are too. But like a lot of those people don't understand what that means or what that is. That's an interesting one too is wave selection. Like, I want a walled one so I can get going on the thing. I don't want some little mush bowl. Yeah.
Michael Frampton
I saw you on a longboard and you had a grom on the front of the longboard as well. Is that a strategy you use for teaching?
Bud Freitas
No, the little guy was scared. And that one, he was super scared to be by himself. And then I'm like, here, I'll just take you on this big old stand up. Went out there and he was getting psyched. He got so stoked. He like took his fear away because he was right next to me, holding me. And it's funny because he kept—he'd stand up and look back and I'm going to hold my hand. And I'm like, nope, you can't do that. You know, and then it grew onto it. And now the kid can surf too. His name's Bob. Good little surfer.
Michael Frampton
Yeah. That would have been a big learning curve for him, you know, getting over that straight away.
Michael Frampton
Fear, like.
Bud Freitas
Yeah. That's a tough one. A lot of kids are—it's just the ocean in general. It's a scary place no matter what it is. And I'm so—that's something I always preach to people. Like, you don't know what the ocean's going to do to you. You don't know what it's going to serve you. A wave—I've had like a two-foot wave just beat me down. And I'm just like, how does that work? I don't understand that. And then you can take a 10-footer and the thing just rolls right over you. So just, it's interesting how the ocean works. And I always make sure whoever I'm teaching is like, pay attention to that stuff.
Michael Frampton
So when people ask you about reading waves, what do you usually say to them?
Bud Freitas
That's a tough one. Just because, like I said, it's just like what you choose. Like, your wave selection is way different than mine's going to be. Everyone's like assuming they're just going to paddle out and be like, you're going to tell me what kind of wave to go for, right? Like, no, you're going to have to look at it. You're going to have to find the wave. And it's funny because the way I look at a wave, like I said, is so much different than the way you look at a wave. Ideally, what I do when I take them out there is I sit next to them and I kind of just show them how the lineup looks or how it works and how the different sections work. So it kind of gives them positioning. And then from there, it's like, even watching those sets come in, they have troubles. They like ask me, how do you know when they're coming? I'm like, that's another thing. You're just going to have to look on the horizon. You're going to find it coming. And once you get to that point, I think once they ride a few waves, then they kind of get an idea because they get a feel for what the waves can offer. For instance, I always work at the point. So it's a real—it's a right-hand point. Some waves are going to be super soft. Some are going to have a wall. So I can kind of fill it out for them. So you can see one's coming in. It'll be a nice walled-up wave. And I'll let them know like, here, this one's going to have a wall to it. They'll ride it. "That was a killer one, that got so much speed," blah. And then you put them on like a mushy one. And they're, "That one wasn't that good." And you're like, okay, now you can like kind of justify what this has to offer and this one has to offer. You're looking down the line, what are you going to find? So I think that's kind of a tough one though. I think it just comes with age. I think over time with surfing, it's just more you surf and more you're in the water, you're going to see it.
Michael Frampton
Yeah. Well, that's a good strategy. You just said this—show them the contrast between a wally, fast wave and a slow, fat wave. You know, you could cue them on what they saw before the wave, etc., and it might spark them to—I guess a part of it is really looking for the detail, isn't it?
Bud Freitas
For sure. That's funny because, like I said, I'm looking for a walled-up wave. I think it just comes with taste too. Like, over time, like you've been surfing for X amount of years and you've seen over the time, like you know what you want, you know what you're looking for. Like, especially when there's a nice ledge you want. Like, say you're looking for some barrels, you know when it's coming, it's doubling up, that's the one I want. And then you compare that to a big old mush ball. You're like, this sucks. You know, this isn't what I want. And like, I think too, you kind of get jaded as you get to the next level too with surfing is that wave choice is like, I'll sit on the lineup for 45 minutes and I'll go on a wave because I know what I'm looking for. There's a wave where I live, it's called Sewer Peak. And when we get South swells, it's a nice big wedge, but the sets in South swells, it'll take 45 minutes. It's a super long wall and everyone's like—they'll be going for everything. And I'll just sit there like, how do you do that? How do you just wait? I'm like, I know what I want. I know what I'm going to get. And I'll just get one and get barreled across the whole thing. And I'm like, that's what I waited for. That's what I want. I think over time too, with people learning to read a wave, that's the challenge too. Because you'll see, like, when someone's learning, they'll go on anything—everything that's coming their way—and they'll just take off because they're like the super stoked, happy surfers. And so I think, like I said, I think just over time, you just—you get in the rhythm and you just know what you want.
Michael Frampton
Well, you make a good point there, is that you can't really choose the right wave if you don't know the type of wave you're looking for.
Bud Freitas
Right. So you've—
Michael Frampton
Got to know what you want to do with your surfing and look for the waves that are going to help you to do that.
Bud Freitas
But it's so—but that's the thing though. You'll sit there for 45 minutes because you think you're going to get the best one and you never get it. You're like, dude. And all these little ones are going by and you're like, no, I'm waiting. I'm waiting. I'm waiting. And then finally one, an hour or something. But I think that's just me being salty. That's what it is.
Michael Frampton
So what inspired you to move from being a pro to being a coach?
Bud Freitas
I did the tour for a couple of years, had okay success with the first couple of years. And then I got burnt out. Just, I think at the time in my life I wasn't really ready for it. I think I was young and still wanted to go do things like party and do all that fun stuff with girls, blah. And it kind of threw me out. And then I took a couple of years off from surfing completely, from like 25 to 26. I just like stepped away. I surfed, but I wasn't really driven to do it as hard as I was because I kind of got burnt from it. And then I got like a second wind and I just started, I got back into it. I like did this film interview and that kind of like sparked it again. It's online. It's one I did, and I'm doing an interview, and that's like—I went and got a job, stepped away from surfing that way. Like, I didn't—wasn't getting paid, so I was like, I'm going to go get a job. Tried it out for a year. It was overworking. So I was like, I'm going to get back into the surfing thing and try and get another go. And at the time it was good timing because I got linked up with Fox Racing, which—they were moving heavily into surfing. And that kind of sparked me going into it. And so I had a good start to that with it, with them, the first year with them. And then as it was moving on, I didn't know which way I was going to go surfing. It was a new contest or just free surf and started free surfing. And then I decided I'm going to start a surfers school with coaching. And I started with one kid, Matthew Reagan. And then from there I picked up a few more other kids, but after using or working with Matthew is like when it really moved forward. And I was like, okay, this is something I want to do. And I want to help these guys out, you know, these kids, because when their parents are coming to me, they're like, I don't know what to do. You know, I don't really surf, so whatever you can have. So then I started having like three or four kids a week, giving them lessons after school. So it's pretty fun because that's what moved it on. And then I started the surfing school, so forth. It just kept going.
Michael Frampton
Do you have many older clients in their thirties, sort of intermediate surfers wanting to?
Bud Freitas
I do. And you know what's funny is I have, like you said, I get these emails and they're always these questions. "Hey, man, I've been surfing for X amount of time. I'm trying to get to the next level, but I don't know how to do this." Or, "Can you help me get to this?" Or, you know, there's all these little questions and all those ones we've touched base on. "I want to ride a shortboard. I want to learn how to read the waves better." There's like all these things. And I get a lot of recurring clients, and they usually come from San Francisco or around the city area, it seems like, a lot of them. But I have one of them, Larry Sullivan, which he's come down since the beginning. And he's surfed years prior and like took a big break. And he came to me and he goes, "Hey, I want to learn how to surf again," or, "I want you to help me get to the next level." And so he still comes down, and he comes down quite often. And those reoccurring ones are fun because, being an adult and like me being a little bit younger than these guys and like teaching them, it kind of cracks me up because they're listening to me. And like, I don't know, just personally, like it always seems like you learn a lot more from your elders, but it's fun because they get the psych, and it's cool because I can paddle out with them. And it's like having a kid with me, but they're a grown adult, and I'm like getting able to be in the water and coach them. And it's just classic because you'll see the same stoke that you see on a kid on a grown adult. It's hilarious. Like, for instance, I have this one client, she lived in Napa Valley, which was about two hours, and she'd drive down every Friday to go surfing with me. She'd been surfing for 20 years and she was from Malibu and fell out of it because she moved inland in Napa. And she'd come down every Friday and we'd go out there and shred and help her get into waves because she was riding a shortboard and she got the bug. And she came down on like a hybrid at first. I ended up getting her on a shortboard and she just went on her way. It was rad.
Michael Frampton
What do you see as the biggest obstacle hindering people's surfing capabilities?
Bud Freitas
I think it's people just shooting for the stars. You know what I mean? I think people—you see this stuff online or you see videos of it, and I think people just assume that you can get on the surfboard and get to that level. And I think, like I said, going back to the fundamentals, I think that takes a big chunk of surfing out for people. They miss that step of their surfing. So I think the hardest or the biggest challenge for people right now is just—I would say it like this: they need to learn how to surf. And I think if it's starting from scratch and starting from the beginning up again, it's going to help a lot of people in the long run. And it's going to take a lot of those people out in the lineup thinking they rip, and really they're just jumping around on the surfboard. And I think just riding a longboard—and even, I mean, it doesn't have to be a longboard, it could be an eight-foot hybrid or whatever—I think that will help a lot of people in the long run. One, it'll help understand a wave better by paddling into it and, you know, controlling a board. Two, just riding a wave on a board that size is a lot harder than it is on a shortboard. I think just being able to maneuver a board like that and then it gets you to that next level. And I just—one thing I wish a lot of the kids—like, if you look at the kids nowadays, they can punt huge airs, but yet they can't do a turn. You know what I mean? Which baffles me, it just sucks because it takes away from surfing. Now it's like, I see these kids, they rip. I'm not going to say they don't rip, but they'll miss 10 big sections just to do one air. You're like, what happened to the rest of the wave? That air was amazing, but yet to get there, all you did was just widen your stance and hop all the way down this line.
Michael Frampton
I've never done much longboarding, but I feel inspired to buy a longboard now.
Bud Freitas
Do. Go get it.
Michael Frampton
It makes sense.
Bud Freitas
No, it totally does. But instead of getting a longboard, get like a hybrid or something for you, since even that will slow you down a bit. Like, grab an eight-foot hybrid or seven-six hybrid, mess around with that thing for a minute, and you'll get on your shortboard and you'll look at it so different.
Michael Frampton
Is there any particular longboarders who you would recommend people watch to learn from?
Bud Freitas
CJ Nelson is a good one. He's from Santa Cruz. He's a great longboarder. Wingnut's another great longboarder. Taylor Jensen can longboard really well. Alex Knost is a great example of that surfing ability. He can ride a longboard like no one else, and he could rip on a shortboard.
Michael Frampton
Do you still do a bit of longboarding?
Bud Freitas
I do when it's small and if I'm riding like the foam boards and stuff. I mean, I'll ride this—I have this thing called the Creeper. It's like this little wide, like six-four, like it's a hog, and it's like a big old, like, hybrid thing, and I'll jam on that thing when I'm feeling it. It's super fun. It's like a quad fish. Like, it's pretty good size. I mean, it's pretty much stand up on the thing floating. It's a big old thing. You can jam on the thing. It's so fun.
Michael Frampton
So there's probably a lot of shortboarders listening that might be inspired to go out and get a longboard and start trying. What's some advice on, first of all, what type of longboard are we looking for?
Bud Freitas
Just get a big old hog, like one of those big old nose-riding longboards. Not a high-performance longboard. Just get a big old log. Like one of those ones where you look at it like, "That thing is a mess." Those are what's going to—that's what's going to teach you how to ride a board. I mean, there's the high-performance ones, got rocker, and it's kind of sharper rails and stuff. No, go get like one of the big old logs, like their logs—10-foot log—and just see what you can do with it.
Michael Frampton
What are the limitations of that sort of board? I mean, are there certain types of wave you just wouldn't even think about trying to go out in?
Bud Freitas
Nah, why not? Why don't you go test your will with it? See if you can make a drop on one of those longboards. Those guys used to do it at Waimea. They used to ride those literally logs at Waimea. You know what I mean? If they can do it, you should be able to do it. Take a steep drop on one of those and, boy, you'll be super satisfied.
Michael Frampton
Yeah. Obviously, I mean, if someone's literally going out for the first, say, month on a log.
Michael Frampton
Yeah. And then all of a sudden their local break turns on and it's six to eight foot barreling. Is it dangerous to take a log out?
Bud Freitas
I would say so. Yeah. Especially like that. If it's like the bottom, I wouldn't do it. But in the meantime, when you're riding all the smaller days, I'm sure there's softer waves wherever you live, unless you live at like, I don't know, only beach break. But there's usually a soft wave you can go ride a longboard at. And I think that's what you'll find. Like, I'm like, there's—it's just a real soft wave. It's called 38th where I live. And that's a great place where I could go ride a longboard because it just rolls. It's kind of like a Malibu-style wave, and it just rolls. So that's like a good way to do it. But if it gets bigger, then obviously I would just jump on the shortboard. But I think in between all that, you can ride a longboard and get a feel for it.
Michael Frampton
What about at beach breaks?
Bud Freitas
That's what I was getting at. I was like, that's a tough one because longboards at beach breaks are no fun. I'm kind of spoiled because I live on a point break. So it's like—that's the difference. And I'm sure you could find some kind of soft, like, Doheny wave where it's just kind of rolling sandbar somewhere. If you're not, then you're going to be riding a hybrid or something like that. So it'll be a less board but still have enough to you where you have to work for it.
Michael Frampton
Yeah, that's a good point. What's an example of a good hybrid for such a thing?
Bud Freitas
The Advance is a great one. The Advance is a perfect hybrid because it's got the volume and it's got the shape of—almost like it's got a nice swallowtail to it. But it's a beefy board. But you could still turn it, and you can still put it on rail. It's not like it's going to limit you just going straight. You're going to be able to turn the board even at 7'2", 7'6". You'll still be able to turn the thing. I think that's a great board even for a man like my size. I weigh, let's say, 170. I could still maneuver a 7'2". Anything over, like, 35 liters.
Michael Frampton
Okay, so I'm guessing you're on about 26, 27 liters on your shortboard. So you're adding another almost 10 liters to that.
Bud Freitas
When I hold it, I'm like, I could stand up to this thing no problem. But like, that's what's fun, because then you paddle into it, you get into it easy, and you start cruising and having fun. And like, just, like, surfing. That's what you're doing. You're surfing.
Michael Frampton
Cool. What are you riding at the moment?
Bud Freitas
I got a 5'7" Sci-Fi. I have a 5'4" Omni. I have—what else do I have? And then I have a custom, which is a round tail. It's like a thumbtail. It's 5'11", 26 liters, Future Fins. Goes off.
Michael Frampton
What's your favorite surfers movie?
Bud Freitas
Damn, that's a tough one. My favorite surf movie—Good Times, Taylor Steele. That was like that one. And then Tony Roberts movies were Progression Session. That was a game changer for me because all the Santa Cruz—The Kill—that was another good one. Yeah, there's pretty much all Tony Roberts movies were like the go-to's. But Taylor Steele too at that time was like changing the game.
Michael Frampton
Cool, man. Thank you so much for your time. Where can people find you online or on social media?
Bud Freitas
They could find me on my surfers school website, surfschoolsantacruz.com. They can find me on Instagram at Buddy Littles. And then I have a Facebook, just Bud Freitas. Awesome.
Michael Frampton
All right, Bud. Thank you so much for your time.
Bud Freitas
Right on, man. I appreciate it. Thanks.
Michael Frampton
For tuning in to the Surfers Mastery Podcast. Again, I'm your host, Michael Frampton. Make sure you subscribe so you can keep up to date with the latest interviews. Please share with your friends. Check us out on Facebook at Surfers Mastery Surf. And if you're on iTunes, please go and give us a little rating. That'd be awesome. Until next time, keep surfing.